On Irving Park east of Ashland - dark and dingy looking.  But I found it friendly and a good pickup bar for trannies.  Especially on weekends.  Latino music and general spanish speaking clientel, but I'm very whitebread and I had a good time.  A little rough around the edges for some.  I found that to be "character" and the closest I've come to a Star Wars bar scene of misfits in real life.  Don't expect swanky tourist attraction or jello shots.