So epic.  Best day in a long time!

Yesterday the waves were over 10 feet high.  I hope you enjoy!  I love to watch surfers!  xo

Smile 4 me!

Just curious what beach do you frequent?

Agreed, it has been epic for our area.  My house overlooks the water here in La Jolla and seeing the sets roll in reminds me of a solid day on the North Shore of Hawaii.  Though it fools the eye, the wave faces appear to be at eye level which just means of course I'm not used to seeing the waves at that height.  The first big day I saw four lifeguard boats performing training maneuvers in the waves and that was pretty impressive as well.  Be diligent out there if you paddle out and always respect mother nature, she'll bite you ;-> .

Came down to San Diego and went surfing in Carlsbad...amazing form and sets were clean.  Absolutely amazing out there!

I surf, but it's been a bit too big. I've been wave watching though!

Tried it once in Brazil, i paid a pro to give me a lesson, but it drove me crazy when i kept falling off the board, very frustrating.

Plus i have a fear of my feet not being able to feel land, i came off a jet ski once, we were quite far out and i was sitting behind my now ex, i almost had a panic attack.

END OF MESSAGE

I surfed until my best friend and I discovered free ride surf jet ski riding in the waves off of O side. I can't explain how much fun it is to hit a wave face at 40 mph and sky 30 feet.

A feeling like no other. I never got injured, but many of the guys I surfed with on their own skis were driven to the ER.

Skiing and regular surfing has seemed boring since. 10 feet is my limit that is scary!

I was there too.  So wonderful!  I have gumby arms from this week of great swell.

It is by far one of the most challenging sports to learn as an adult.  I started about 6 years ago, and I still have a ton to learn, and I'm still a low intermediate rider.  It can take years just to clock a few hours of actual standup time on your board.  You have to really want it and be willing to put in the time.  You become very well versed in humility in patience as your try to learn, but it really is worth it.

My daughter and I both paddled out!
San Diego is definately missed by me..  
very envious of those that reside there

Enjoy the beauty and splendor..
Las vegas has nothing on Carlsbad,Encinitas,Del Mar,and Cardiff
sincerely
Lorena