A great dog....a job ya truly enjoy going to everyday....and 1 human on earth who you can count on and who can count on you win lose or draw....I would take those over sex and money....but ive had a lot of sex and done well on the money part already so I know they are nice....but not the best life has to offer....or at least not for me..
Perfect head high waves at a nice point break (1); morning sun and nobody else out (2); light offshore breeze to hold up the peaks (3)...
Great sex with the woman I'm meeting after the surf session, with a nice drink and breakfast after; and enough money to afford it all the time, anywhere in the world...
I aways enjoyed waves of consequence when it comes to the kind of surfing that rivals sex. You ever get barfed out of a tube on a reef wave that will hurt you if you don't make it - with both friends and rivals watching?!?
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